Реферат: Background: Acne is one of the most common inflammatory skin diseases associated with sebum hypersecretion and the action of steroid hormones in the skin and the whole body. Sebum secretion is increased due to overexpression or elevated amounts of type I 5α-reductase, leading to inflammation and acne. Methods: The research was conducted using Prunus mume fruit extract enriched with quercetin and shikimic acid. Type I 5α-reductase was selected as the main target for in silico molecular modelling of phytochemicals. The maximum tolerated concentration was evaluated on human sebocytes using the MTT assay. An in vitro study was performed to determine the effects of shikimic acid and the combination of shikimic acid with Prunus mume fruit extract on the level of type I 5α-reductase in skin sebocytes under testosterone-induced stress, using the ELISA method. Additionally, the stability of the cosmetic formulation containing these phytochemicals was assessed for future clinical research aimed at alleviating signs of inflammation in healthy volunteers, according to international ethical guidelines. Results: Based on in silico and in vitro results, shikimic acid was identified as an effective modulator of type I 5α-reductase in skin sebocytes. The addition of Prunus mume fruit extract, enriched with phenolic compounds, enhanced the activity of shikimic acid on type I 5α-reductase. The combination of shikimic acid and Prunus mume extract in a 1:1 mass ratio demonstrated a good cytotoxicity profile within the concentration range of 0.001 to 1.0 wt%, with cell viability ranging from 85% to 100%. Furthermore, at a concentration of 0.03% wt%, the phytochemical combination exhibited a significantly enhanced effect, reducing the amount of type I 5α-reductase to basal levels compared to the testosterone-stimulated group (p < 0.001). This effect was 20% more pronounced than shikimic acid alone (p < 0.001) and 30% higher than salicylic acid and azelaic acid, used as positive controls for acne treatment (p < 0.01). Moreover, Prunus mume extract stabilized shikimic acid in the cosmetic formulation, preventing crystal formation. Clinical research of the cosmetic patches containing these phytochemicals confirmed the absence of adverse skin effects and demonstrated improvement in inflammation signs in healthy volunteers. Conclusion and discussion: The study underscores the beneficial effects of combining shikimic acid with Prunus mume fruit extract on testosterone-induced acne lesions, providing significant efficacy and improved stability in cosmetic formulations. The phytochemical combination could be a promising natural modulator that alleviates skin inflammation by modulation of type I 5α-reductase activity. Further research could explore its effects on different stages of acne, leading to the development of novel pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical formulations.

Библиографическая ссылка: Patronova E. , Ilin E. , Filatov V. , Kalenikova E.
Novel prospectives of shikimic acid and Prunus mume extract for enhancing bioactivity on 5α-reductase and stability in cosmetic patches for acne treatment
Frontiers in Natural Products. 2026. V.4. 1737986 . DOI: 10.3389/fntpr.2025.1737986 OpenAlex

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Поступила в редакцию:	2 нояб. 2025 г.
Опубликована online:	8 янв. 2026 г.

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